The Feta Cheese Dispute
Issues of Regional Identification Involving EU Regulations and “National” Brands of Food
by Mike Peluso, 11/20/2005
Introduction
There has been an encouraging degree of cooperation in recent years among European countries, and it appears that the EU has helped to create a more defined sense of a truly "European" identity. The spread of ideas and culture has become more apparent than ever before. However, despite the recent successes of the EU, it has not gone without controversy. Specifically, a number of conflicts over food have emerged in the past few years. Despite the increase in cooperation, it has become apparent that there are still strong regional and national identity issues among many Europeans. In some cases, these national disagreements have extended to different types of food and the question of which culture they belong to. Feta cheese is one prime example, and it has been battled over by Greece, Denmark, and Germany, among others. The long-running disagreement over this cheese shows that cultural and economic concerns are still extremely divisive elements within the EU. Care must be taken to fairly deal with such issues in order to further the goals of greater European integration and cooperation.
Summary of the Conflict
In 1994, Greece asked for PDO status from the EU for feta cheese, which they contended was a uniquely Greek product. The European Commission accepted this in 1996 despite the anger of Denmark, Germany, and France. These three nations stood to lose a great deal of money if feta became a strictly Greek product. However, this decision was overturned in 1999 due to challenges mounted by the aforementioned nations. The Commission conducted an investigation into the origins of feta, accepting information from both sides, and in 2002 declared that PDO status would be given to Greece. On October 14, 2002 feta cheese was officially named a Greek product that can only be produced in particular areas of Greece and under certain regulations [1]. Other countries have continued to protest this ruling, requiring a recent reaffirmation by the Commission in 2005. The most intriguing development involves the impending entrance into the EU of Bulgaria. Unlike Denmark, Germany, and France, who argued against the PDO status for predominantly economic reasons, Bulgaria has its own cultural claims to feta. Bulgarians contend that feta is in fact their own, and it appears certain that the feta conflict will continue [2].
EU Regulations Regarding Protected Food
In 1992, the European Union created several designations in order to protect certain regional food products. The goal was to prevent the spread of food that distributors would pass off as genuine cultural foods. For example, with regards to feta cheese, distributors in France would market so-called "feta cheese" to consumers that was not created in the traditional area or with the traditional methods of the Greeks. The EU felt that this was not only a disservice to customers, but also that it created unfair competition for the original producers of the food [3].
The three main designations that the EU created are: PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) and TSG (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed).
A PDO is issued to protect food that is produced, processed, and prepared 1) in a specific geographical region and 2) with a traditional method. As mentioned above, this is the designation Greece successfully obtained from the EU for feta cheese. Under such a ruling, producers of feta cheese outside the specified regions of Greece are not allowed to market their products as "feta." They must market the cheese under a different name.
A PGI requires a link to a specific geographical area in at least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation.
A TSG mainly requires that the food is prepared using a traditional method or that it is made up of traditional elements.
[3]
History of Feta Cheese Production
Feta cheese is a brined cheese that is made from goat and sheep milk. It is unclear exactly when it began to be produced in Greece, but it is discussed in several ancient Greek sources. For example, the Cyclops in Homer's The Odyssey prepares a cheese from sheep's milk that is believed to be feta [4]. Within Greece, feta has been produced in much the same way for thousands of years. The unique climate of the Greek mountains is believed to give feta cheese its distinct taste, with the main ingredient coming from sheep and goats that graze in the area. Greek producers have strict regulations regarding feta, including the stipulation that at least 70% of the product be made of sheep's milk. The remainder can be made of goat's milk, due to the difficulty in obtaining large quantities of sheep's milk. It takes about an hour for the milk to coagulate, and then it is cut into large cubes. These cubes are packed away into barrels and refrigerated for about two months [5].
The interesting thing about feta cheese is that it continues to develop as it ages, much like fine wine. It will taste differently depending on how many months it has been allowed to age. The Greeks have been regulating this process since 1935, and their firm tradition ensures a cheese with a strong, salty taste. Other producers, like France and Denmark, often use cow's milk in the process, and they may use coloring agents that Greek producers strictly prohibit [1].
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The Importance of Feta Cheese to Greek Culture
Feta cheese is a key component of Greek cuisine. It has a place in almost every meal, at any time of the day. Greek people are the largest cheese consumers in Europe, and 40% of their consumption is made up of feta cheese. Until 1898, feta cheese was produced solely for domestic consumption, but since then it has been expanded to international markets [1]. To the Greeks, it is very important that other nations not be allowed to use their brand name and even their flag to sell a knock-off product. For many Greek farmers, the PDO ruling means that they will finally be able to gain success in a global market that was dominated by brands of "feta" from Denmark, France, and Germany.
Feta cheese, and cheese in general, has a long-running historical connection with Greece. The relative lack of economic opportunity in the country led to a cheap diet. Meat was often too expensive, so most Greeks relied on what they could produce on their farms. They began producing cheese from their livestock's milk, and cheese gradually became an ever-present feature of Greek meals. Feta cheese has become a favorite due to the strong attachment Greeks have to it, both in terms of its local production and its excellent taste [6].
According to the European Court of Justice in reaffirming their decision to grant PDO status for feta cheese, the majority of feta cheese production (some 85%) and consumption is still centered on Greece and has been for some time. They also noted that feta marketed in other countries often used labels that referred to Greek culture. Because of this, "consumers in those member states perceive feta as cheese associated with Greece, even if in reality it has been produced in another member state" [7]. The feta cheese issue is not just one of economics for Greeks. It has become an issue of national pride and culture. In 2003, for example, shipments of contaminated feta cheese were found in Norway. The feta cheese had been produced in Greece and then exported. Greek authorities clearly took the issue very seriously, revoking the licence of the offending feta producer and threatening prosecution. The Agriculture Minister even went so far as to declare the creation of "feta police." This group would ruthlessly enforce proper production methods and regulatory measures, insuring that no more damage was done to Greece's reputation in the broader European community [8]. Robert A. Georges discusses this interplay between food and national identity. He mentions the fact that the preparation of "Greek" foods is a way for his relatives to take pride in their ethnic identity and also connect with others who share that identity [12]. The preparation of foods like feta cheese involves certain knowledge and tradition, and this reenforces ethnic and national pride among Greek people. This has much to do with the determination that Greece has had in fighting for PDO status.
The Importance of Feta Cheese to Other European Countries
When feta cheese was initially given PDO status, there was an intense outcry from several European nations. The main nations are Denmark, Germany, and France. These three nations are concerned because of the negative economic impact they will face. They are aware that they do not have cultural ties to feta like the Greeks do, and their argument avoids any attempts to create such ties. Instead, they argue that the term "feta" is a generic term, much like "Yorkshire" pudding does not actually have to be produced in Yorkshire [9]. Producers in these other countries believe that the Greeks can have their genuine brand of feta, but that the term itself should not be removed from use. This will require significant remarketing costs as well as a probable drop in revenue when the former "feta" cheese receives a name unknown to consumers [9]. All three of these countries export most of their feta cheese.
-Denmark is the second largest feta cheese producer in Europe, producing about 30,000 tons a year and exporting most of it. It started production in the 1930's, and then began to market its cheese as "feta" in 1963. Their feta cheese is produced with cow's milk, which is considered by Greeks to produce an inferior product.
-France started producing feta in the 1930's, and a vast amount of this production is currently exported to other countries. The French use both cow's milk and goat's milk, but not the sheep's milk that is so important to the traditional way of producing feta.
-Germany started its feta production much more recently, beginning in 1972. They began marketing it as "feta" in 1985. Like Denmark, Germany uses cow's milk to produce their feta cheese.
[1], [2]
 The Flag of Bulgaria |
The projected 2007 entrance into the EU of Bulgaria further complicates the conflict. Unlike the economically focused arguments of Denmark, Germany, and France, Bulgaria has deeper cultural claims to feta cheese. Bulgaria produces its own white brined cheese, very similar to the Greek feta cheese. Some Bulgarians claim that what is known as "feta" cheese actually originated in their country, and thus should not be designated as a product of Greece only. Currently, Greek and Bulgarian diplomats are battling over cheese issues. Greece complains that Bulgarian firms are illegally marketing their brined cheese as feta and exporting it to other countries. The Bulgarians have retorted by claiming that Greek producers have been repackaging Bulgarian cheese and marketing it as their own feta [10]. With the entrance of Bulgaria into the EU, the tension is certain to escalate.
Personal Perspectives of Europeans
Note: The following are responses to several articles on feta cheese and its origins. These excerpts are presented as they originally appeared, with no editing for spelling or grammar.
From http://www.foodreference.com/html/artfetacheese.html :
Hi James: I just read your article on feta. Just to clarify a few things, I would like to mention that feta is produced in Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. They are the best known of all. Some claim the best to be Bulgarian but it is debatable and a matter of personal opinion. However, France and Denmark also produce feta. They are processed and packaged. Obviously they lack a semblance to the original product. The origins of feta are also unclear, while some claim it to be Greek others place the origin in Macedonia which partially is in Greece and now independent.
Regards H. Berberoglu
8/2004
I have just read the article Ina Zachary and found it so incorrect to the point of being offensive. Just to set the record straight Feta cheese is from Greece and as you rightly pointed out it's been produced in Greece for thousands of years from Sheep's and sometime goats milk. The other White Cheeses found in eastern Europe were produced by nomadic race of people called Vlahs (also know as Armani) who were actually sheep and goat herders during the Roman reign, they spread through out the entire Balkans which is why white cheese can be found through out the whole of Eastern Europe however Feta Cheese is Greek and it's name is Greek, as you rightly pointed out it means "slice". The Romanian white cheese is called "Telemia" and is completely different in both taste and texture to the Greek feta cheese.
As for Greek Salad being known as Macedonian Salad in Western Europe is just an outrageous claim, I have live in England for 15 years, and due to my work I travel extensively through out Germany, France, Switzerland, Romania, Hungary, Greece and Italy and I have never ever heard of a Macedonian Salad. I truly find this offensive and I'm sure that other who have read this page do too, therefore I urge you to either move the post to the bottom of the page or remove it completely. I strongly believe in freedom of speech however the facts here are so distorted that are giving the general public incorrect information, it would be the same as me claiming that Yorkshire pudding is actually made in Siberia and it's know as Siberian pudding in Western Europe.
I look forward to hearing from you at your earliest convenience.
Michael Matsoukas
10/25/2004
About the so called Feta dispute...FETA is a Greek white cheese...There is also Bulgarian, Romanian and Turkish white cheeses as noted. The only reason why the Greek one became more famous over the others is the relative isolation of Bulgaria during communism. But let me assure you that the Bulgarian white cheese is nothing like the Greek one!!! If you call the Bulgarian cheese 'feta' in Bulgaria they will absolutely "kill" you...(not literally of course:)
All the people I know upon trying the Bulgarian one never touch the GREEK one again, personally I cannot eat the Greek one, it has a hell of a strong taste! Make yourself a big favor and try Bulgarian white cheese - you will love it - guarantee!
I cannot comment on the Romanian and Turkish ones but the Bulgarian is definitely better than the Greek one. I am sure few years from now it will push the Greek one into the abyss. First in Europe and then in America;-)
Just to let you know Yoghurt (a Turkish word) is a Bulgarian product also!!! The Bacteria that makes it is called Lacto Bacillus Bulgaricus -. So it makes sense that the Bulgarian cheese is better, don't you think?:)
P.S. Bulgarian cheese is made of cow, goat and sheep milk. Needless to say, the sheep one is the best!
Daniel Palazov
12/11/04
I'd like to post my 2 cents on this Feta Cheese debate. I tried not to repeat what other's have said and provide something that adds to the discussion. Thanks.
As a cheese lover and being of Bulgarian AND Greek descent, I can’t believe there’s so much fuss about a commercially distributed product. Yes, “Feta” is a Greek word and so, “feta cheese” is the white cheese made in Greece. And indeed, there are other white cheeses in this world, such as the Romanian version, the Cypriot version called Haloumi, the Danish feta cheese, etc., and you will find the appropriate name and origin on the package in the supermarket, or on a sign at the deli counter. There is even a white cheese made in South America that's less salty and more “flexible” than the European or Turkish versions. It is the predominant use of the word “Feta” that has come to describe white cheese that creates the confusion and the ridiculous nationalist outbursts. One cannot claim that a certain type of cheese is “better" than others as it is all a matter of personal preference. There isn’t a golden standard that all white cheeses have to amount to. They’re all made differently to achieve their unique texture and taste. As far as the origins of white cheese, historical accounts place it in the Balkan Peninsula that is now modern Greece. There’s no one to say that it couldn’t have originated elsewhere in the world, say in the ancient Middle East or Northeast Africa, and migrated as trade routes expanded. As far as “Macedonian Salad” is concerned, there couldn’t be a more absurd characterization. Ancient Macedonians inhabited part of what is now a Greek province and part of what is now an independent nation of the same name. Macedonians, Athenians, Spartans, Thebans, etc., had one thing in common: they all shared the same culture, the same language, and worshiped the same 12 Gods in Mount Olympus. There was one name that collectively described all the inhabitants of the separate nation-states in the Peninsula: “Greek.” Please, no more absurdities about cheese and salad. It’s just food.
Tony Oustabassidis
From http://keywords.oxus.net/archives/2005/02/16/feta/ :
Implications for Europe
As mentioned in the introduction above, the formation of the EU has represented an encouraging step towards greater European integration and cooperation. Currently, the EU has made important strides with regards to economic and political unification. Unfortunately, it appears that seemingly "small" issues like food can actually play a central role in creating tension and divisions within the European Community. Long-standing cultural traditions often stem from a time long before the nation-state, and this creates the possibility of so-called "national" foods actually crossing borders. Hence, there are similar white, brined cheeses throughout the Balkans. Clearly, feta cheese is a key component of Greek culture and cuisine. Their efforts at achieving PDO status have some economic motives, but it is also an issue of national pride and identity. Greeks resent the dilution of their traditional product by producers in other countries that use inferior ingredients and processes, while still using the Greek name to boost sales.
On the one hand, Greece seems to have a strong case for the protection of feta cheese. On the other hand, this decision will certainly have a negative impact on other European nations like Denmark and Germany. It is unlikely that such a decision will help to further European understanding and cooperation, and it will probably increase tension. A new wrinkle comes from the future entrance of Bulgaria, with their more persuasive cultural claims to this type of cheese. Consequently, Greece and Bulgaria are currently engaged in a war of words as each accuses the other of theft and false advertising. The Bulgarians claim that the Greeks are stealing their cheese and marketing it as feta, thus using the PDO status as an unfair advantage. The Greeks have retorted by claiming that Bulgarians have tried to market their white cheese as feta in an illegal attempt to piggyback off of this well-known name [10].
It may seem confusing to some that an issue like feta cheese can be the cause of so much conflict. However, the European continent has a long history of massive differences between nations, even while they all exist under this banner of "Europe." There have been numerous attempts to institute peace and create a "pan-Europe" of some kind. The European Union is the most promising development yet, but its successes have masked a number of issues surrounding regional identity, culture, and economic interests. If the EU is to truly succeed and continue to grow, it must find a way to deal with such issues in a way that maintains harmony and constrains aggression. The feta conflict has raged on for eleven years; it is about time that a solution should be found.
However, there is certainly reason to believe that issues of national identity will not necessarily destroy the idea of a broader European unity. Anthony D. Smith notes that human beings always maintain multiple identities without necessarily compromising them. He claims, however, that national identities are far more vivid and have the benefit of a historical past that appeals to people in a far greater way than this comparatively new notion of Europe. At the same time, there is a European "family of cultures" that consists of partially shared traditions and cultural experiences [11]. He holds out the hope that this middle ground can be found between stark nationalism and a "memory-less" conception of Europe. It is up to European leaders and EU officials to ensure that national identities are respected, while also convincing Europeans that they share elements of common culture and common interest.
Works Cited:
[1] Economou, Georgia. 2003. Feta 2: The Feta Cheese Wars. Washington, DC: American University, TED Case Studies, Number 675, 2003 (15 November 2005, 8:00 PM). Available from World Wide Web: ( http://www.american.edu/TED/feta2.htm).
[2] Guardian, Reuters. May 12, 2005. "Greeks taste victory as feta's name is protected." (13 November 2005, 1:00 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.smh.com.au/news/World/Greeks-taste-victory/2005/05/11/1115585031493.html).
[3] Quality Products catch the eye: PDO, PGI, and TSG. Europa (13 November 2005, 1:45 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://europa.eu.int/comm/agriculture/foodqual/quali1_en.htm).
[4] Production of Feta. Feta Mania (7 November 2005, 7:00 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.feta.gr/english/index.htm).
[5] Fletcher, Janet. "The Truth About Feta." Specialty Food Magazine (7 November 2005, 7:30 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.specialtyfood.com/do/news/ViewNewsArticle?id=1581).
[6] Feta Cheese. Washington, DC: American University, TED Case Studies. (15 November 2005, 8:15 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.american.edu/projects/mandala/TED/feta.htm).
[7] ElAmin, Ahmed. "Feta ruling emphasises danger of branding local foods." Dairy Reporter.com, October 26, 2005. (20 November 2005, 8:55 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.dairyreporter.com/news/ng.asp?n=63474-arla-foods-northern-foods-feta)
[8] Morgan, Tabitha. "Police to tackle dodgy feta." BBC News, July 12, 2003. (13 November 2005, 2:15 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/3060705.stm).
[9] "European blow for UK cheesemaker." BBC News, May 10, 2005. (18 November 2005, 4:00 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://newswww.bbc.net.uk/1/hi/business/4532669.stm ).
[10] Velinova, Sia, and Boriana Semkova. "Pan-European War for Feta Cheese." Capital Weekly. (18 November 2005, 4:25 PM). Available from World Wide Web: (http://www.capital.bg/weekly/05-39/10-39.htm).
[11] Smith, Anthony D. "National Identity and the Idea of European Unity." International Affairs, Vol. 68, No. 1 (January 1992), pp. 55-76.
[12] Georges, Robert A. "You Often Eat What Others Think You Are: Food as an Index of Others' Conceptions of Who One Is." Western Folklore, Vol. 43, No. 4 (October 1984), pp. 249-256.
The reference to Homer is hardly “(unsubstantiated) “facts”". The Greeks eating Brined sheep’s milk cheese is noted in Homer in several places in the Odyssey.
Here in the US there have been some problems with Listeria in Bulgarina Feta. Also the Bulgarian importers are not just fighting on the name having to do with Greek origin, they are also fighting the ingredients issue. The Bulgarian keep getting caught importing Feta adulterated with cow’s milk. (Which is why people judge it as more bland, ironically a perference in the US where people often don’t know it should be soaked in fresh water for an hour or two.)
The Greek Feta is of course more creamy with a mandated 45% cream, where as US, Bulgarian and others are only set at 40%.
Here is a trick, soak your Greek Feta, it is saltier because by law it has to be aged longer in brine than the Bulgaria.
Remember, cheap cream cheese for your bagel tastes creamy too, but that creaminess is really blandness.
As far as the EU, health regulations are keeping out the Bulgarians so it is really about the French and the Danes. Teh frenchhave insisted on trademarking a massive number of foods and only started making Feta a few years ago to limit rouqefort prodution due to a mass increase in sheep milk there. The Danes use cows milk and their feta is like comparing kraft american cheese to aged chedder.
I guess what cheeses the Greeks off most is that in Bulgarian the term Feta was never ever used. their white brine cheese is “siline” (white in bulgarian) and if you asked five or ten years ago in Bulgaria for feta peopel would have looked at you like, whell like you were speakign Greek! It is only their export market to piggyback ont the Greek reputation that casued them to adopt teh term Feta.
sory for the long answer but I worked in a cheese shop years ago and never forgot my cheese.